4th May 2026
Cheese Stories
German version
Beyond DOP: Angela and Antonio’s cheesemaking in Campania at Caseificio Starace
This Cheese Story is based on a meeting with Angela and Antonio Starace at their caseificio in Campania. Like the cheese-making at Tenuta Vannulo, they embody a traditional regional craft that goes far beyond the mere production of mozzarella and demonstrates just how diverse pasta filata specialities can be. Here, in particular, we look at the example of provolone without the DOP seal.
Full of passion and a zest for life, Angela and Antonio Starace are the fifth generation to carry on their family’s cheese-making tradition here in Vico Equense.
At first, I don’t even notice the friendly welcome honks. The constant din from Naples is still too much: a city where the horns never stop. Up here in Vico Equense, 350 metres above sea level, a village of 20,000 souls on the Sorrentine Peninsula at the foot of Monte Faito, this different, starkly contrasting tranquillity hasn’t quite sunk in yet. All the more surprising, then, is the moment when Angela Starace intercepts me during my walk up to her caseificio with a friendly “tut tut”.
“Ciao Laura, come stai?” A radiant 32-year-old woman steps out of the car, brimming with energy, full of joie de vivre. Together with her husband Antonio, who is five years her senior, she runs the fifth-generation cheese dairy up here – a place where the traditional cheese-making craft of Campania has been carried on seamlessly since 1920, founded by her great-great-grandfather, who was also called Antonio.
“Of course, it’s not always easy.” And by that, Angela doesn’t just mean striking a balance between family life, the cheese dairy and sales. Whilst Antonio works alone in the cheese dairy every day, she – as was the case when we met – is the voice of the small business. Not only to hold her own amidst the multitude of artisan cheese dairies in the region – there are 27 in Vico Equense alone – but also against industrially produced cheeses bearing the DOP seal.
All of this comes across only between the lines during my visit up here at her estate. For what defines our time together is, above all, the sheer delight in the variety of her own products, the pleasure of carrying on the Neapolitan art of cheese-making with her own hands. She does so with great naturalness, almost casually, yet at the same time with a palpable passion that defines her identity. I’m experiencing a picture-perfect family from southern Italy’s Campania region: full of life, with a deep appreciation for the region’s culinary traditions – and Angela Starace, with her uncompromising attention to detail…
The centrepiece: Provolone de Vico Equense
The variety of Pasta Filiata specialities available at the Staraces’ own farm shop shows that Campania’s ‘white gold’ is much more than just mozzarella!
“Wait, I haven’t even put my apron on yet!” The presentation has to be just right – not only for the cheeses and the charming details in her farm shop, but also for her appearance on camera. Angela pops next door for a moment whilst I marvel at the variety of products: absolutely every pasta filata speciality you can imagine – both on and above the cheese counter.
“Our star product is, of course, the Provolone di Vico Equense!” I hear from behind me as she, now all dressed up, ties her curls into a plait. The Provolone, then. A semi-hard, mature cheese within the Pasta Filata family, which hangs from the ceiling in various stages of maturity, with its elongated, melon-like shape. A fat content of at least 40 per cent in the dry matter ensures a sweet, buttery flavour, underpinned by a delicate, pleasantly spicy note.
“But ours is better than the DOP one.” I immediately ask Angela why. “Because we leave it to mature for longer – and we don’t use any salt.” To give some background: Provolone Valpadana was awarded DOP status in 1993 as one of more than 60 (!) Italian cheeses with a Protected Designation of Origin. In addition, there are now around 550 regional varieties – such as Provolone de Vico Equense. “The designation of origin isn’t always an advantage,” says Angela. “Just because a cheese bears the DOP label doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good.”
A real Starace
Longer maturation, individual care: “These Provolonini, for example, are two years old and have been matured in our own cellar. Every two months, we rub them with vinegar and olive oil.”
Angela points to the Provolini hanging behind the counter. “These ones, for example, are two years old, matured in our own cellar. And every two months we rub them with vinegar and olive oil.” The DOP Provolone is usually only matured for the prescribed three months as Provolone Piccante; here, however, they sell their Provolini with up to three years’ maturation. The signs of this maturation period and careful tending are clearly visible in the wheels, which can weigh up to three kilograms. Whereas Campania’s ‘white gold’ often only reveals its inner qualities when cut open, here the outer rind alone speaks volumes about its unique character: a play of blue and reddish hues that makes this regional speciality a true star.
Her husband Antonio produces the Provolone single-handedly, as well as mozzarella, ricotta, caciocavallo and various seasoned specialities – using recipes that have been passed down unchanged in the family for over 100 years. As the fifth generation, he immediately followed in the footsteps of his father, Giovanni Starace. A living family tradition. The milk from the 50 or so Frisona Italiana cows also comes from the family; his uncle’s farm is just a few hundred metres away.
1,000 litres of milk a day, morning and evening, every single day: the two of them run the family business on their own. “Of course, that means no holidays, no time to catch our breath.” When, as happened this morning, the older of the two daughters is ill and has to go to the doctor, they have to pull together once again. “But it means everything to us – as proud Campanians – to be able to carry on the family trade here in the region.”
The full range of flavours from the region
Angelo’s father, Giovanni, is pictured in a portrait hanging above the entrance to the cheese-making rooms: a family trade that has been passed down since 1920 and is now in its fifth generation.
The very best quality and a pure, unadulterated flavour in their cheeses are their top priority: “Ten litres of milk for one kilogram of mozzarella. Just rennet and milk.” They deliberately avoid using salt – even though it would make the stretching process easier – and instead opt for a longer maturation period to allow the milk’s flavour profile to come through as naturally as possible. Even the Fior di Latte is given at least twelve hours here to develop its full flavour profile, reflecting the region.
On the way to the cheese dairy, we pass the estate’s own vineyards. “We made a conscious decision to go with Sabato.” A rare red grape variety from Campania that was long at risk of extinction – a medium- to late-ripening grape, approved for the Penisola Sorrentina DOC wine. Angela starts daydreaming: “Imagine this fresh wine with ricotta and ripe fruit. And here I am, right at the source! But don’t tell Antonio that ricotta is my favourite. Strictly speaking, it’s not even cheese.”
And he – we’ve now arrived at the cheese dairy – is most proud of his Provolone. “You can only get it in this form here, even though we have so many cheese producers in the neighbourhood.” It’s not just with this favourite cheese that their differences become apparent: whilst Angela leads the way with her outgoing, ever-beaming manner, Antonio, with his calmer demeanour, tends to stay in the background. “We complement each other perfectly,” he whispers softly in my ear.
Pure, authentic and radiant
The connection to the region doesn’t stop at cheese: “We made a conscious decision to choose Sabato. It’s a rare red grape variety from Campania that was long at risk of extinction.”
“What would you both like?” I ask them, whilst Angela prepares a tasting platter for me with mozzarella, caciocavallo and – she winks at me – of course a generous portion of ricotta. “Support would be brilliant. But it’s hard to find anyone in the local area who has the skills we’re looking for.” And those who could usually run a cheese dairy themselves – with or without a protected designation of origin.
The Starace family is one of many in the region who demonstrate that Campania’s cheese-making craft is about so much more than just mozzarella. Rooted in deep-seated tradition, it has shaped the region and yet remains as unique as the personalities of Angela and Antonio.
As radiant as their snow-white cheese, laughing heartily, working hard – and bound to their homeland with unconditional devotion. “To give our two daughters, Mariagrazia and Cecilia, a future.” Up here in Vico Equense – the sixth generation of the Starace family. Pure, authentic and as bright as their mozzarella. One of the many facets of Campania’s white cheese gold.
This encounter is part of my ongoing Cheese Stories on international cheese cultures.